Canadian Rockies: to the Top of the World

Whichever island I visit in Greece I always aim to climb the highest mountain.  I have written about going to the ‘top of the world’ on Nisyros, Symi, Tilos, Hydra, Karpathos ……… .  Generally they are not very high in global terms, about 2000 feet above sea level, but they nonetheless represent a challenge, especially starting from sea level in the heat of a Greek summer.

I have been skiing for three days now in the Canadian Rockies, twice at Sunshine and once at Lake Louise and each time have gone to the top.

At Sunshine I went close up Goat’s Eye Mountain (2,800 metres, 9,200 feet) on the eponymous Express ski lift and Lookout Mountain (2,730 metres, 8,950 feet) on the grandly named ‘Great Divide Express’.  The latter is indeed the Continental  Divide in Canada, draining to the East into the Atlantic and the west into the Pacific.  It makes mere humans seem small, puts us in our place. None of these ascents involved any physical effort, just sitting on a ski lift.  The effort was in getting back down.  I skied routes with names like ‘South Divide’, ‘Boutry’s Bowl’, ‘Snowsnake’, Strawberry Face’ and, as mentioned previously, ‘Sunshine Coast’.  All very enjoyable.

Then I went to Lake Louise.  For a warm-up I skied ‘Wiwaxy’, a Green run and designated as a training route but for novices a massive step up from the bunny slope.  Then I skied ‘Juniper’, a Blue,  to lay the ghost memory of  torn knee ligaments 3 years ago.  I skied it again just to make sure.

Having laid that ghost I headed for the Top of the World Express.  I was surprised at how many people there were at the top of the Lake Louise world.  I can only conclude that it was not to their taste because they left pretty quickly and shot back down as fast as possible.  I dawdled enjoying the place and taking photos, somewhat inhibited by the need to keep changing the battery in the camera, rendered inoperable by the cold and so regularly swapped for one kept close to my body heat.

I should add that the top of the Top of the World Express at 4407ft, 1344m,  is not only not the top of the world but not even the highest point within eye-shot with a ski lift to the top.  It is nonetheless a great place to be especially on a near cloudless day with good snow so a little poetic licence can be forgiven.

From there I skied the gloriously named ‘Sunset Terrace’.  It may afford good views of the sunset, though as the lifts close well before dusk it may be difficult to authenticate, but on the day it was littered with bodies sprawling across the narrow and deeply mogulled cat track at the top.  I should explain that a cat track is so named not because of an abundance of felines but because it is a track used by caterpillar-tracked vehicles to reach the top of the lift.  That being said, my daughter once spotted a lynx ambling across the snow not too far away.  I went back up another three times and, among other routes, skied ‘Home Run’, took a couple of ‘Wrong Turns’, an ‘Upper Wiwaxy’ and a ‘Whitehorn Cat Track’.  How do they think up these names?

I skied until my thigh muscles were screaming, victims of lack of preparation in the weeks and months since I got back from Greece.  Plenty of opportunity, just no resolve.  Still tomorrow is a day off from skiing so I’ll go trekking instead.

Photographer at the Top of the World looking across the 'Back Bowls'

Photographer at the Top of the World looking across the ‘Back Bowls’

Warning!

Warning!

Some of the peaks surrounding the Back Bowls

Some of the peaks surrounding the Back Bowls

Looking from the Top of the World to The Summit

Looking from the Top of the World to The Summit

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Sunshine Coast in the Canadian Rockies

The sleep I was looking forward to when I finally arrived in Banff wasn’t refreshing.  I had temporarily forgotten that sleeping at altitude (albeit only 1400 metres) messes with my sleeping pattern.  The lapse of memory was only short lived.  I remembered as soon as  I woke up after just 2 hours.  I dozed fitfully for the rest of the night.  

Nevertheless, the conditions for the first day skiing were very good with a recent dump of snow and blue sky.

However, because the snow fell on an icy and thin base the avalanche risk is high and patrols were dynamiting in the more extreme terrain which remains closed for skiing.  The local newspaper, the Rocky Mountain Outlook’ comments on the front page of the issue published today (Thursday 16 January), that “This winter is shaping up to be a potentially deadly avalanche season” and reports that the Trans-Canada Highway was closed for a time between Lake Louise and Field on Monday (13 January).  On Sunday a skier triggered an avalanche in the out-of-bounds area at Sunshine ski resort and on Tuesday a snowboarder was buried at Lake Louise ski resort though neither was killed or seriously injured.

The avalanche risk on the groomed terrain of  ‘in-bounds’ skiing to which someone of my limited ability is confined, is thankfully low.

I headed for the ‘Sunshine’ ski area under gloriously sunny skies.  To get the feel of being on skis again I started with a rabbit run on, I kid you not, ‘Jack Rabbit’.  I couldn’t believe how bad I was.  I had little control over my feet with the result that my skis kept crossing over.  My brain seemed to have lost all connection with my legs.  To those few others around I must have looked a pitiable sight, a complete incompetent.

I persevered with Jack Rabbit for another two rabbit runs and began to regain my ski legs so I ventured onto Banff Avenue a really enjoyable Green run.  Two runs down that and I was fighting to not get blasé, picking up speed, coasting in close to the trees before turning, zooming around novices.  I decided to end the morning on Christmas Tree, a Blue run recently downgraded from Black.  Narrow and heavily mogulled it brought me back to my senses.  I coped but it wasn’t pretty.  So I did Banff Avenue again to regain my composure before going to the ski lodge for dinner.

Then I took the Goat’s Eye Express up to near the top of 2,800 metre (9,200 ft) Goat’s Eye Mountain so I could run run Sunshine Coast, a long and very enjoyable Blue.  I ski because I love being in the high mountains in deep winter and at this  altitude in the Rockies I find it difficult not to be taken up completely with the surroundings.  It’s a real privilege to be here.

Looking down Sunshine Coast.  Where the skiers are at the bottom it is essential to turn sharp left.  Within a few metres straight on comes to the extreme 'Wild West' ski area, closed because of avalanche risk

Looking down Sunshine Coast. Where the skiers are at the bottom it is essential to turn sharp left. Within a few metres straight on comes to the extreme ‘Wild West’ ski area, closed because of avalanche risk

Canes mark the right-hand edge of the ski area.  Beyond is ....... really dramatic.

Canes mark the right-hand edge of ‘Sunshine Coast’. Beyond is ……. really dramatic.

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Time plays with the mind: the Canadian Rockies

It’s 23.30 Rocky Mountain Time, 06.30 GMT and 08.30 in Greece.  After 30 hours without sleep I’m now in Banff and ready to go to bed, the first time before midnight for years.  But then it’s another midnight not the one I’m used to.   Assuming I’m thoroughly refreshed from a night’s sleep it’s on with the fun tomorrow ….. later today …………. Thursday 16 January 2014.  But then it’s already Thursday 16 January in Greece and the UK and folks there will be getting up as I’m going to bed.  This stuff messes with the mind.

Temperatures are below freezing.  Snow is piled up in the streets creating a barrier down the centre of Banff Avenue.  Should be good up in the mountains.

More of which to follow.

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…………. at least I had mown the lawn

The weather in my neck of the woods, indeed throughout the UK, has been crazy.  With the exception of a very occasional overnight dive to near zero with accompanying ground frost, temperatures have continued above freezing for weeks, sometimes hitting double figures. Grass is still growing, trees are starting to bud, spring plants are well out of the soil.  As written about in recent ramblings, the unseasonably mild spell has been accompanied by overcast skies, heavy and prolonged rain which, coupled with strong westerly winds generating storm-surges on ‘Spring’ tides, has caused much flooding along major rivers and  estuaries as well as turning paths into streams, streams into torrents. 

However, attempts to get out walking in the mountains have been thwarted not so much by the low cloud and rain as by the need to spend increasing amounts of time on preparations to go to Canada.

Winter gear to locate and make sure it is all clean and still serviceable.  Skis and boots to check.  Currency to order and collect.  Banks to be alerted to the use of plastic abroad.  Flight tickets, transfers and lift passes to be booked printed out and collected together.  Passport to be fished out from the ‘safe’ place it was put on return from Greece in October.

The house has to be prepared to leave for a month.  Food in the fridge to be run down so there is nothing left to moulder.  Veg to be used up so it doesn’t decompose.  Bags  of potatoes harvested from the garden to be distributed to friends and family as they will be sprouting by mid-February when I return.

Friends to meet up with.  Some will have gone back to homes in France by the time I return. Family to see.  Neighbours to have a quiet word with and arrange for an eye to be kept on the house.  The value of good neighbours cannot be overestimated:  while I was in Canada 3 winters ago hard frost and strong wind damaged the chimney which fell through roof.

I had set aside a week to sort all this, a comfortable timescale.  But the relaxed regimen  started to unravel from day one.  My daughter was unable to visit before I flew to Canada as planned so instead a trip to the North of England was mooted, taking out the last weekend.  Monday, Tuesday and Thursday evenings of the final week I had arranged to meet friends for a pub meal and/or a pint.  Wednesday afternoon my son and family were coming for a meal.  All still manageable, if under a bit of time pressure.

But then more sardines had to be rammed into the tin.

I wrote before Christmas about the problems, nay, the minor trauma, of the struggle to salvage the memorable number from my old mobile phone. (see)  Taking advantage of lower prices in the post-Christmas sale I signed a contract for the new smartphone of my choice.  Problems with it being activated meant three visits back to the shop in Cardiff were necessary: an hour travelling there; an hour trying to sort things out; an hour travelling back.  Half a day each time!!! Finally sorted by Wednesday afternoon, just in time to get home to cook for the family.  After which an unexpected last-minute meet for a pint with friends before they return to France.  Then return home and crashed into bed

By Thursday things were becoming a trifle manic.  No gear sorted.  No packing done.  No documents printed.  With a deadline towards the end of the day of getting to the travel agent to collect Canadian currency and then going yet again to Cardiff to meet another friend for a curry and a pint I had to cram in a lot.  I needed a haircut, so down to town to the barber’s first thing.  Pleasant walk back through the park, looking wistfully at the first blue sky for days but knowing that because I had to sort my gear and start to pack I had to resist the urge to escape up the ridge again.

The water-eroded path from the park up to the ridge top under tempting blue sky

The water-eroded path from the park up to the ridge top under tempting blue sky

Back home I flew into a flurry of activity: throwing winter gear into a pile ready to go in the Big Bag; checking and packing skis, boots and associated paraphernalia; tracking down e-mails and printing tickets.

At about 14.00 I stopped to gobble down some food and noticed that the sun was still shining.  Uncertain about temperatures in the garden while I was away, another task was to move potentially vulnerable pot-plants, mainly various types of ferocious agaves, into the Blue House (a large greenhouse except it’s blue) which would afford protection if temperatures fell below the minus 5 degrees that they can tolerate.  I had hesitated to put them inside while they were wet, which they had been for weeks, because that can result in losing them all to mildew.  Suddenly and briefly dry, a window of opportunity, half an hour and only a few bits of torn flesh later, the job was done, plants stowed safely under cover.

And then, for the first time ever in January ……………. I mowed the lawn.  In case you missed that, I’ll repeat it:  I mowed the lawn …. in January!!!

Friday was even more manic than Thursday. It began dramatically enough with a fiery, golden sunrise.

Not an impressionist painting but the fiery sky behind the house

Not an impressionist painting but the fiery dawn sky behind the house

A leisurely breakfast then with much of the preparation in hand I had 3 hours to pack for the weekend before meeting the ladzwotlunch, an offshoot of the rebellious group of former colleagues of the Not-The-Xmas-Dinner, direct from which gathering I was catching a train to travel north.  Then the plug was pulled on the timetable.  First, an e-mail call from my son needing a lift to collect his car from the repair garage.  The relaxed schedule became tight.  As he arrived, the phone rang and the ADT emergency call-out centre alerted me as a key holder to an alarm indicating a potential intruder at a friend’s house, requiring  a visit to check.

By the time I arrived home and parked the car in the garage I had 10 minutes (no exaggeration) to pack ready to leave for the weekend.  I threw electrical gubbins into a rucksack and legged it for the bus.

Convivial pub lunch then at 15.15 I sank back in the seat on the train after one of the most disjointed, disrupted weeks I can remember.  Now nothing to do for 2½ hours but sit back, read a book, play with my new phone, remember what I had forgotten or had no time to pack, and doze.  At least I had mown the lawn.

Urban sunset over Stockport

Urban sunset over Stockport

Barring the unforeseen, the next blog post will be from the Canadian Rockies.

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A grey start to the year

I don’t believe in omens.  The fact that the new year continues grey, wet and windy may be a sign, but if it is, it’s a sign of global climate change and of shifting ocean currents and the jet stream which mean ‘local’ weather patterns are increasingly different from past decades.

As I write this there are 330 flood warnings or flood alerts in England and Wales affecting every region and another 97 have only been withdrawn in the last 24 hours.  Heavy rain and strong winds are forecast again for overnight and tomorrow.

Climate scientists seem agreed that more extreme weather and more frequent occurrences of it are likely to be the consequence of climate change which some countries, including the global giants, driven by economic rather than environmental imperatives, continue to ignore and fail to act on effectively.

From the macro to the micro.  The effect on me is that as I try to get out in the mountains to regain some of the fitness I had when I returned from Greece in October before I head for Canada in just over a week, the conditions are not the best.  New Year’s Day was the wettest I can remember with standing water where I haven’t seen it before, small streams turned into gushing torrents and footpaths become stream beds.

Sunday and I went up Garn Wen again.  Once more it was grey, wet and windy though it wasn’t raining as heavily and the stream at Coed Ithel was fordable.  Nevertheless I had a good soaking and by the time I returned to the ford the water level was rising..

But perhaps the most noticeable difference was the greyness.  On New Year’s Day the cloud base was about 300 metres rising through the day so that by the end of the afternoon the 425 metre top of Garn Wen was out of the clag*.  On Sunday the cloud base was below 200 metres and didn’t lift at all.  Before I got back down to civilisation it was dark and I was walking by Braille.

Lost in the cloud, a lone tree at about 250 metres

Lost in the cloud, a lone tree at about 250 metres

Standing water everywhere, here on the last section of path onto the open mountain

Standing water everywhere, here on the last section of path onto the open mountain

The top of Garn Wen at 425 metres, no view even of the immediate surrounding area.

The top of Garn Wen at 425 metres, no view even of the immediate surrounding area.

No sign of proper winter weather in prospect around here.   The snow on the tops of the mountains has long gone. Ten day forecast for South East Wales – continuing cloud, rain and temperatures well above freezing.  Long range forecast for Banff – by the time I get there it will be cloudless blue sky with temperatures consistently below freezing.  There is over a metre snow at Lake Louise, around 3 metres at Sunshine.  Now that’s a proper winter!

 

*NOTE: I use ‘clag’ in the sense of thick, low cloud or mist, not in its alternative meaning of sticky mud.

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New Year’s Day: Just a walking in the rain ………….

Wednesday was the wettest day of the year.  Admittedly it was the first day of the year so not a lot to compare it with but if many of the remaining 364 days match up to the amount of rainfall then we have a problem.

Recently my son and I have started a New Year’s Day tradition, he mountain bikes and I walk along the mountain ridge which lies between our two houses and have a pub lunch in the Goose and Cuckoo in Upper Llanover. The weather is usually ‘interesting’, in the mountaineers sense of the word.  In 2010 the ridge was covered in snow and natural ice-sculptures.   2014 and it was windy and wet.  Very wet.

The farm track at the start of the walk was flowing, stones bouncing along, the ditch at the side filled to the brim with water the colour of drinking chocolate pouring off the fields.  By the time I reached the ridge top at the Folly Tower, just below 300 metres I was in cloud and the rain was horizontal. It must have succumbed to the law of gravity and reached the ground at some point but apart from what was dripping off me that seemed unlikely in the near future.

Water flowing down farm access track

Water flowing down farm access track

Sheep stood huddled under hedges, fleeces hanging with mud, looking too depressed and  heavy with water to be bothered to run away.

The path down to the stream at Coed Ithel, vegetation irrevocably damaged by illegal off-road motorcycles and so normally mired in mud in wet weather, was being scoured to bedrock.  Crossing the usually shallow ford was impossible.  The stream, now a torrent, would have offered an interesting white water kayak experience but for the overhanging branches which rendered it suicidal.  My only way across was to push upstream from the ford through brambles, find a narrow point, and jump.  Left foot slipped in as I hit the opposite bank and the water overtopped my boot but I was across.

Standing at the edge of the flooded ford at Coed Ithel

Standing at the edge of the flooded ford at Coed Ithel

The path up to the open mountain.

The path up to the open mountain.

Every depression in the ground on the ridge-top was filled with pools of standing water, one overflowing into another until it reached the edge and became a stream looking for the lowest point.  The usually dry and stony path off the ridge down the eastern flank of the mountain to the Goose and Cuckoo was one such stream.  Part way down, water from the path diverted into the ditch at the side of the forest track which crossed it but was soon replaced by another stream as more run-off fed into the bed of the historic sunken way between the two major valleys of the Avon Llwyd and the River Usk.

The path down to the Goose and Cuckoo off the mountain, normally dry even in wet weather

The path down to the Goose and Cuckoo off the mountain, normally dry even in wet weather

A miniature waterfall, once a path

A miniature waterfall, once a path

In the grey conditions even the moss looks vivid

In the grey conditions even the moss looks vivid

My son arrived in the Goose minutes after I did, wet, cold but buzzing after a good bike ride.  We had bowls of bean soup and steamed dry standing in front of the log-burning stove. The few other customers had come by car and soon left.  The landlady was a little despondent; a group of 20 walkers she had been advised were coming and had catered for had phoned to cancel because it was too wet!!!

We set off back, again by different routes, me on foot, he cycling.  We knew that this time we were heading into the teeth of the wind.  Fortified by soup but a little sluggish at first on the climb because full of beans, gastronomically, I must confess to being elated once on the ridge–top partly because it was downhill from there, partly with the satisfaction of having overcome difficult conditions.

Standing by the trig point at the top of Garn Wen, as if in response to the wave of a hand the cloud suddenly lifted opening views across the valley and down to the coast.  Back the way I had come was still shrouded in cloud.  The amount of standing water was now more obvious, pooled in places where in nearly 40 years I had previously only seen dry ground.

The view suddenly opens up across the valley

The view suddenly opens up across the valley

Often wet when it rains but I've never seen it with standing water

Often wet when it rains but I’ve never seen it with standing water

The water level in the stream at Coed Ithel had dropped slightly making jumping across at a more convenient spot viable. A pull up to the top of Little Mountain, the final climb on the route, and despite tired legs there was now a spring in my step.

Posted in Grey Britain, Hiking, Landscape, Monmouthshire, Mountains, Pontypool, Wales, Winter | Tagged , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

An alternative Boxing Day

From the top of Garn Wen on Christmas Day I could see not only a cap of snow on the top of the Sugar Loaf Mountain near Abergavenny but also to the north west a snow covered ridge in the core of the Brecon Beacons.

That was my target for Boxing Day.  Recent rain and low temperatures may not have brought snow to 425-metre Garn Wen near the house but in the core of the Beacons, more than 300 metres higher, the additional 2oC drop in temperature would have meant that the precipitation fell as snow.

It had.  The sun was shining and not surprisingly the car parks in the col were full to overflowing.  As is usual at any time of year most people were heading up the main path to Corn Du and Pen y Fan though with snow right down to road level not a few, mainly young families, were staying on the slopes close to the car park with sledges.

Though my inclination is always to go up the highest peaks I decided against it because of the numbers trudging up the 2-metre wide path, because the two main peaks were in cloud, and because with the sun in the west the better photographs would be taken looking east towards them.

To the west of the road the 734 metre (2,408 ft) Fan Fawr (Pronounced ‘Van Vowr’ and meaning Big Peak) looked a good option.  Once past the tobogganists by the car park I saw only one person in the next 3 hours as I climbed to the top in snow varying between 6 inches and a foot.

Walking in snow is heavy going compared with walking the barren mountains in Greece but I loved it and it was an easy introduction to the skiing and trekking I plan to be doing in the Canadian Rockies in less than three weeks time.

Looking to the top of the the  Fan Fawr ridge from part way up

Looking to the top of the the Fan Fawr ridge from part way up

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Corn Du emerges from its cloud cover

The car park and Storey Arms outdoor activity centre with Corn Du above

The car park and Storey Arms outdoor activity centre with Corn Du above

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Looking South from Fan Fawr

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A small stream meanders across the summit plateau, eventually draining into the rivers of Waterfall Country below.

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On the summit plateau, the only person I saw in nearly 3 hours

Tall photographer on the summit, extra tall because only 5 days after the Winter Solstice

Tall photographer on the summit, extra tall because only 5 days after the Winter Solstice

A photo stop part way down the steep end of the ridge

A photo stop part way down the steep end of the ridge

Grass tussocks still stick out of the snow

Grass tussocks still stick out of the snow

Woodland edge felled for road improvements below Corn Du

Woodland edge felled for road improvements below Corn Du

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An alternative Christmas

I don’t enjoy Christmas.  This year I was looking forward to it less than usual until I decided to do the unthinkable.  Spend Christmas Day on my own. 

It’s a quirk of the human psyche that the things we choose to do are more bearable or acceptable than those which are foisted or forced on us.  Solitude only becomes loneliness when we have no choice but to be alone. Christmas is when organisations such as the Salvation Army bring the plight of the lonely to our attention.

Choosing to be on my own at Christmas is quite different from having no choice, knowing there is nowhere to go, no one to spend the day with.  I knew I was welcome to join family or friends.

Why did I make this strange decision?

Despite its etymology, ‘Christmas’ as it is now celebrated is not rooted in Christianity but in ‘Saturnalia’, a Roman feast of considerable debauchery and political subversion.  Emperor Domitian (51-96 AD) changed the climax of the week-long Saturnalia to December 25th in an attempt to assert his authority and control subversive acts associated with it.  The earliest reference to 25 December commemorating the birth of Christ is thought to be as late as 354AD, 42 years after the Emperor Constantine’s conversion.

In Western cultures we seem to have gone full circle and the emphasis is back on excessive eating and drinking and excusing behaviour which at any other time would be considered unacceptable. The focus of Christmas is not Christ but Santa who has got his claws well and truly embedded in our society, a far cry from the 4th Century philanthropic Saint Nicholas, Greek bishop of Myra in modern-day Turkey.

Supermarkets follow Halloween stock immediately with Christmas stock. TV adverts tell us from early in November what luxurious food and drink we should buy in order to have the ‘Perfect Christmas’.  Gift ideas are thrust at us wherever we look.  Silly antics such as sitting on the photocopier and pinning up the evidence is part of Christmas ‘fun’.

I could go on.  Christmas gets me down.  It makes me sometimes angry, sometimes depressed. Some 35 years ago I was a founder member of a small coterie of rebels who, fed up with the office Christmas Do (a ‘do’ is a North of England expression for a party or other celebration), inaugurated the Not-the-Xmas-Lunch and went to a nearby pub for fish and chips.  The NTXL has been held every Christmas since. This year, partly because of disenchantment with the obscene commercialisation of Christmas and partly for personal reasons, I took the concept one step further.  I reached a point where I just wanted to opt out of Christmas Day.  Be alone with my thoughts. Do my own thing.

I’m a Christian so consider it right that we should be reminded that God became man in the person of Christ.  That doesn’t need to be tied to 25 December or any other day in the year but it is common practice for it to be, so I began the day as usual by going to the Christmas morning service.

Then I ploughed a new furrow, I trekked up Garn Wen, the mountain behind the house.  I had intended going even if it was pouring down with rain but in the event it was sunny and very pleasant.  So I lingered on top, spending time reflecting, remembering.  It’s usually a two hour walk there and back but I took three over it.

Approaching the ridge-top path

Approaching the ridge-top path

Coming to the Folly Tower

Coming to the Folly Tower

I usually decorate the house wit holly from this and other nearby trees on the ridge, but not his year

I usually decorate the house with holly from this and other nearby trees on the ridge, but not this year

One tree split in two with a wreath placed between, a reminder that mine isn't the only loss felt at Christmas

One tree split in two with a wreath placed between, a reminder that mine isn’t the only loss felt at Christmas

Looking back

Looking back

Heavy rain for weeks has left the ground very wet but colurful

Heavy rain for weeks has left the ground very wet but colurful

On the top, looking north the summit of the Sugar Loaf Mountian has a cap of snow

On the top, looking north the summit of the Sugar Loaf Mountain has a cap of snow

Looking West, a sprinkling of snow on the east-facing scarp

Looking West, a sprinkling of snow on the east-facing scarp and approaching cloud

Dropping back down towards the Folly Tower

Dropping back down towards the Folly Tower

Seen from the end of the ridge, the layer of cloud swathing the West Country

Seen from the end of the ridge, the layer of cloud swathing the West Country

I got home early afternoon and then had a meal sitting in front of a log fire.  As a family we have always had ‘Traditional Christmas Dinner’ usually turkey but occasionally varying it with duck and once a goose.  We always had a good time together as a family though it generally took about 5 hours to prepare, eat and clear away by which time those who had been doing the work were exhausted and those who hadn’t were nodding off from eating too much and inactivity.

Christmas Dinner 2013

Alternative Christmas Dinner 2013

This year I had chicken breast marinated in olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and paprika with baked potatoes, parsnip, carrots and beetroot, basted with olive oil.  Preparation time 15 minutes then 30 minutes in the oven.  Followed by rhubarb and ginger with Greek yogurt and a cup of industrial strength coffee.  No hassle.  Mostly fresh from the garden.  Delicious.

My Alternative Christmas was rounded off nicely when, early evening, the family came over so we could exchange gifts and share some time together.

Next, I’ll write about my alternative Boxing Day

Posted in Grumpy Old Men, Health and humour, Hiking, History, Landscape, Mountains, Pontypool, Reflections, Wales, Winter | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Brief gaps in the clouds: Seasons Greetings

With the weather largely grey and wet, expected to be an increasingly typical manifestation of climate change in northern Europe, combined with preparations for Christmas and meeting up with friends before I head off on my travels again, there has been little incentive or opportunity to go walking in the mountains recently. But fortunately the passage of brief sunny slots in low pressure frontal systems has coincided with the sun rising above the ridge at the same time as I’m rising from Morpheus’ grip and in the course of a single week produced some dramatic skies as I blinked blearily from the balcony at the back of the house.

Angry red

Angry red

Golden streaks

Golden streaks

Ominous

Ominous

Crepuscular rays

Crepuscular rays

One day, after a spell of particularly strong winds, I walked home from the local supermarket via the ridge top, starting in bright sunshine and finishing little more than an hour later under heavily overcast sky.

Blue sky as I left the house, and a tree cottoneaster which the birds haven't yet stripped of berries

Blue sky as I left the house, and a tree cottoneaster which the birds haven’t yet stripped of berries

Reaching the ridge and a shallow-rooted beech tree blown over in the storm

Reaching the ridge and a shallow-rooted beech tree blown over in the storm

The Shell Grotto and its wind-blasted companion

The Shell Grotto and its wind-blasted companion

Higher up the ridge another wind-blasted tree as the Folly Tower comes into view

Higher up the ridge another wind-blasted tree as the Folly Tower comes into view

..... and then looking back and the sun has been all but obscured by rapidly advancing stratus cloud

….. then looking back and the sun has been all but obscured by rapidly advancing stratus cloud

I look forward to more mountain activity early in the New Year.  Hopefully with some proper winter weather: hard frosts, snow, blizzards and the like.

In the meantime ……. Seasons Greetings.

Posted in Grey Britain, Landscape, Mountains, Pontypool, Wales, Winter | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Trek tech: technology and mountain walking

I’m no techno-geek but nor am I a Luddite. Decades ago in the office where I worked, I was one of the first to embrace word processing, the first below director level to have a corporate e-mail address and correspond electronically in nano-seconds.  More recently, I was the first to buy a washing machine sized colour laser printer to produce thick documents JIT, slicing chunks off the printing budget. I could blow my own trumpet ad nauseam about my willingness to embrace IT.  In fact I guess I probably just did. I was never bright enough to be at the cutting edge of technology but switched on enough to learn from those who were.  

However, I drew the line at mobile phones.  I simply didn’t want to be on the end of the line at all times and in all places.  At first it was simply the multiple loud mouthed “I’m on the train” reverberating down the carriage.  It degenerated from there.  The guy walking along the street shouting and gesticulating wildly may not be mad, simply in a business discussion.  The attractive girl who smiles and says “Hi!!” is almost certainly not addressing me.  Don’t those prats realise that the sound of tinkling is a dead giveaway to their interlocutor that they are in the loo with the phone precariously balanced between shoulder and ear, in danger of being dropped into the porcelain !?!?!?!?!

With a nice irony, about 6 years ago I inherited an ‘old’ mobile phone from my son and heir.  His contract expired so the phone, an ‘SPV M3100’ once the trendy thing to have with a slide-out keyboard, became junk and he received a new one.  This was a techno revolution for me because, to be fair, it did prove to be very useful, not as a phone but as a palm-top computer for making notes when I was wandering around the mountains researching the Greek Island Walks.  Previously I had scribbled notes on crumpled bits of increasingly sweaty paper.  Now, GPS references tapped in from my old Garmin and terse notes and directions were downloaded into my netbook back at the hotel via Bluetooth or a micro-SD card and then turned into proper English before combining with photos and construction of a PDF version for the internet.  The phone had a built-in camera too, though at only 2 megapixel resolution I preferred to use my 12 megapixel Canon.  Hi tech stuff!

I used that SPV extensively when I spent the summer in Greece in 2010, so much so that much of the research remains to be written up.  As a phone it had a very memorable number, which my son regretted not having transferred to his new model.  However, for use outside the UK it cost an arm and a leg.  At that time calls back to the UK or even within Greece from a UK-based phone cost just short of £1 a minute.  Idiotic when calling someone on the next island or even in the next alleyway.  It therefore fell into disuse as a phone and eventually I stopped using it to record data because I had such a backlog to write up.

Before I went to Greece for the summer in 2010 I bought the cheapest Pay As You Go SIM-free phone I could find, £8 plus £10 credit with one of the networks.  It’s just a basic phone, no camera, no note-making facility, but for some weird reason it has a built-in torch, as if some kind of add-on was imperative to make it saleable.  The reason I bought it?  Simple.  I could buy a Greek SIM card and use that.

I bought the SIM card in Athens which is a story in itself, there being a convoluted multi-stage form filling and validation process.  One requirement was an address in Greece and though I was renting a house, that didn’t overcome the problem – there are no street names or house numbers on Symi so no addresses, only rentable box-numbers at the post office.  I made up an address.  As a phone it works fine, though it is a bit irritating if it rings when I’m clinging by my fingertips to a rockface and it turns out to be a ‘Welcome to Turkey’ text from across the narrow channel separating the two countries (genuinely. that has happened a few times).  Because it’s Pay As You Go there is also a convoluted process for buying more credit.  But that again is another story.  The fact that it is 3 years since I rented the house is thankfully not an issue

I was climbing a crag to a vantage point with camera slung on my back to take this photo when the phone rang .... a welcome message from Turkey just across the water.

I was climbing a crag to a vantage point with camera slung on my back to take this photo when the phone rang …. a ‘Welcome to Turkey’ message from just across the water.

I use it infrequently but one advantage of carrying it is that it sets at rest the minds of those concerned that I may come a cropper wandering the mountains on my own.  Truth be told, my own mind is set at ease more by carrying it when I’m walking with other people whose capabilities I don’t know.  Regretfully, often forget to charge it.

Now I’m on the brink of another techno-revolution.  A couple I walked with on Nisyros carried smart phones with an app (I hate that abbreviation which has now become a word in its own right) which uses GPS to log your track, calculate how far you have walked and your speed and transfer it onto a map or satellite-image base.

A bit of research when I arrived home and I find that, as well as having GPS capability as standard,  now there are smart phones with a 42 megapixel camera and which allow text to be associated with the images.  In short, a new ‘phone’ sounds perfect for updating Greek Island Walks and compiling new ones.  I thought it time I should take the plunge.

Which brings me to the last couple of grey weeks when decent walking opportunities have been limited.  I’ve researched and homed in on a make and model of phone, concluding that 20 megpixel resolution is good enough for my needs.  I’ve checked out rental packages with various networks balancing my estimated need for ‘texts’, ‘minutes’ and ‘data’. And I thought it would be good to sign up to a package and transfer the memorable number from my SPV M3100.  That’s when I hit a brick wall.

Because I hadn’t used it as a phone for a couple of years the (limited amount of) credit on it had disappeared into corporate coffers but, more problematically, when I tried to put more credit on it, I found that the number had been discontinued.  Enquiries in several mobile phone shops including those of the network provider produced a blank. One epic conversation ran roughly as follows:

I have one of your phones and the number has been discontinued.  Please can I have it reactivated.

If it’s more than 6 months it can’t be done.

Why not?  The number hasn’t been given to anyone else, I have dialled it.

It’s gone into recycling.

What does recycling mean?   

It’s what happens when the number is discontinued, it goes into recycling.

But what does recycling mean?

It means it’s been recycled.

Yes, but……………….

I have missed out several reiterations of this circular question-and-answer session before we moved forward … or not!

Well, recycling is where they change one or two of the numbers and then re-issue it.

But if they have changed any of the digits it’s a different number.  I want the same number back.

No, they change some of the numbers and reissue it.

At that point I gave up and staggered out of the shop, my brain disintegrating with the speed of the verbal centrifuge, in danger of disappearing down the plug hole.

I wasn’t prepared to give up.  I looked up contact phone numbers on the network’s website and tried ringing those which seemed appropriate, only to find that I couldn’t get beyond the first recorded menu because in order to proceed I had to enter the number of my mobile phone, which of course I couldn’t as it has been discontinued.

Fortunately my hair is short and I couldn’t get a grip on it, otherwise I would by then have been bald, tearing it out in frustration. Eventually I decided to phone the ‘New Sales’ number which was, as is so often the case, quick to reply and free of charge.  I outlined what I wanted, explaining that it was good number, easy to remember, which was why I wanted to retain it.  The young girl took a few details, asked me for the ICCID number on the SIM card, called up my records on the computer and then transferred me to someone she said could help me.

The next young girl asked security questions, thankfully excluding such daft things as ‘name of first pet’, tapped away for a few seconds and said …….. unfortunately it’s not there.  I accepted the verdict from this girl and her colleague because it was clear that they understood the process and did their best to sort it out.

Then she said “I can give you a new number”.  I was resigned to it by now and just wanted the phone reactivating, so I glumly agreed.

“Can I check the number again” she said.

“XXX YY ZZZ 05”

“XXX YY ZZZ 50.  Is that OK for you?”

“That’s great, thank you”.

If you could give someone a hug or a bunch of flowers over the phone, I would have done so and worried about the political inappropriateness later.

All I have to do now is buy a new phone and transfer the number.  Aaaagh!

Posted in Greece, Grey Britain, Grumpy Old Men, Health and humour, Hiking, Mountains, new technology | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment