Greece 2011: Symi to Rhodes and leaving Greece

Mixed emotions Wednesday morning.  Woke to the usual flawless blue sky, warm sunshine and fabulous views.  Finished packing, breakfast on the hotel terrace, caffeine fix in the coffee shop opposite,  and saying goodbye to good friends.  I will miss it all.

But I was going home.  Looking forward to seeing family and friends.  Glad of the opportunity to try to catch up on a lot of things which haven’t been done in the house and garden for the last 18 months and which have been increasingly preying on my mind.

A last look along the harbour on Symi while waiting for the ferry

Once again the journey was not without incident, but thankfully only minor ones.

I had booked my ferry ticket 10 days ago and had checked it with the ticket office when I spotted on the internet that the times had been changed.  “The ticket is OK but the time has changed from 09.20 to 10.00” was the clear message.  Only the message hadn’t got through to the crew on the ferry.  When I presented my ticket I was told that it wasn’t acceptable. I would have to change it at the harbourside ticket kiosk.  It suddenly became a major issue because the turn-round time on Dodecanese Seaways high speed catamarans is very fast and slick.  And I was by no means the only person with the wrong time on the tickets.  There were a lot of us.  I ran across to the kiosk and found one person ahead of me with the same problem and a stream of others running behind me.

The guy in the kiosk started to phone Head Office, the same procedure as on Kalymnos when I nearly didn’t get a ticket at all.  Then, as if realising the scale of the problem, notably that there were 50 or more passengers in danger of missing the ferry and thereby missing their flight, he ditched the phone idea, opened the kiosk door and ran to the ferry shouting to the streams of would-be passengers “The tickets are OK.  The tickets are OK”.  He ran onto the ferry and starting shouting in Greek at the crew checking the tickets in terms which I suspect our Greek tutor would not have taught us under any circumstances.

There was then a lot of angry shouting and arm waving during which, having followed the guy from the kiosk to the front of the queue, I thrust my ticket into the hand of the guy collecting them and walked onto the boat.  The ticket-guy then threw up his arms and exclaimed something along the lines of ‘ Oh! bugger it’ … and suddenly everybody else flooded on.  Within a very few minutes the ferry pulled up the drawbridge and shot off from the harbourside  at customary high speed.

Potentially major problem averted.  Had I, and a lot of others, not got on that ferry we would have missed our flight home.  Sat back in the sun on the outside deck with a sigh of relief.

Very pleasant walking from the harbour in Rhodes in the late morning Autumn sun.  No hurry, plenty of time to get to the airport for the flight at 15.10.  I had intended to catch the bus to the airport rather than a taxi, €2.20 rather than €22. Perhaps as well really because the taxi drivers were once again on strike.

Arrived at the airport just after 12.00 in plenty of time so, declining the opportunity to join one of the three  already 30 metre-long queues at check-in straight away, I bought a snack and a drink and went and sat outside in the shade for an hour or so.   I ambled around in the last of the decent sunshine I was likely to see for a long while and then went inside to join one of the queues.

Rhodes ‘Diagoras’ airport has a new terminal  building but has succeeded in maintaining all the atmosphere of a huge cattle-shed.  The queuing for check-in here has always been a very unpleasant experience.  You just have to switch off your brain and go into stasis, maintaining just enough motor function to shuffle forward every few minutes and hope that they will finally put you out of your misery before you lose control and run amok.  The problem is that the whole system is badly set up and managed.  Basic Systems Management skills could improve it dramatically.

Wednesday was an order of magnitude worse than normal.  Progress was glacial.  I joined the queue at 13.15 and reached the front at 15.00, ten minutes before scheduled take-off, by which time staff were panicking.   After this there was another queue to put the Big Bags through the security scanners.  Then a queue for security scans for bodies and cabin luggage.  Then for passport control.  Then finally for the gate out onto the tarmac.

Amazingly after all that the plane took off only half an hour late.  It was an uneventful flight, unlike the flight out to Rhodes which many of the people had been on the week before.  Apparently there had been very disruptive and offensive behaviour on the plane.  We learned this because before in his pre-takeoff welcome speech, the pilot announced over the intercom that the offenders were not on board and, indeed, had been banned from flying by all the airlines flying into and from Rhodes.  By all accounts their only way off the island was by sea.

Just a small sting in the tail on the journey back.  The plane landed and taxied to the terminal building.  The pilot switched off the seatbelt sign signalling everyone  to unbuckle, leave their seats and clear overhead lockers ready to make for the exits.  After standing around for an unusually long time the pilot came back on the intercom to explain that the airport authorities were scouring the building to find the man who operated the airbridge.  Eventually he was tracked down and we were back.

Grey Britain here we come!

But let’s be positive.  I had a great time on both Kalymnos  and Symi.  The weather was exceptionally good.  It can be a bit cloudy and cool in September but this year it was cloudless the whole time with just enough breeze to take the edge off the heat in the middle of the day.  The walking was also exceptionally good on both islands with a mixture of old favourites and new challenges.  I got to spend time and relax with some good people.   The problems, such as those with the ferries, were no  more than we have come to expect in Greece and all resolved themselves with no real inconvenience or hardship.  Verdict: a very good Summer.

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Greece 2011: Symi – του χρόνου – until next year

Tuesday and my last day on Symi.  Ferry to Rhodes and then flight back to Grey Britain tomorrow …. I checked out the weather forecast.  GRIM!.  Looking forward to getting home in a way, yet very reluctant to let go of here.

A lot of running around in the morning sorting various things including bits of shopping and seeing friends.

Couldn’t leave without climbing a mountain and a last swim or two in the Aegean.  If you haven’t been to the Greek islands in September you have missed a lot.  Temperatures are manageably hot.  The sea is unbelievably refreshing.

So I climbed a mountain, swam in the sea.  Very difficult to let go.

Sad to leave friends.

A last few images of Symi.

The mega-big Blue Star Ferry pulling into the harbour early morning, as seen from my balcony

Some of the windmills on the ridge in morning light

Looking across deeply eroded limestone pavement to Pedi bay

The monastery of The Waters of Life, nestling in a cleft in the mountain

The main courtyard of the monastery

One of a few old buildings on the top of the moluntain

Just to prove that I got to the top

.... and just to prove I was right when I said I would be taller by the end of the summer (check the archive for 21 June)

How much more peaceful can it get than this!!!!!!!!!

..... and looking towards the mountain I have just come from

The ridge with the windmills in the late-afternoon sun

X

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Greece 2011: Symi – much alone in the open air

Monday and it didn’t take a genius to work out that my body would rebel if I tried to do another walk like yesterday.  Nor could I just mooch around all day and do nothing.

Strange how decisions can be made by the apparently trivial.  I always take bananas to eat when I‘m out walking over here, they are ready packaged, loaded with energy and have high levels of potassium to ward off muscle cramps.  The bananas in the nearby supermarket where I do most of my shopping were this morning very decidedly past their best and would certainly not survive a trip in a rucksack.  Logical conclusion, buy them in the supermarkets down at the harbour, which meant that it made sense to do a walk from there.  So I did.

I devised a walk that would take me to familiar places and take me to the beach at Nimborio for an afternoon swim.  I didn’t fully appreciate how it would all click into place until I was sitting in the taverna afterwards having a beer and reading ‘Icons of England’ edited by Bill Bryson with contributions by many other people some of whom I knew of, others I didn’t.

It was when I read the chapter on ‘Those Special Places’ that it clicked. The author, Robert Blythe, calls them “privately claimed territories” , “small consoling geographies” …… places which have special association for us as individuals but may not in themselves be intrinsically special and probably mean little to anyone else.

There are many such places for me on Symi, places which Enfys and I visited over the years and became special to us both. I hadn’t appreciated when I worked out the route that I was stringing together a number of such places but I guess subconsciously that is just what was going on.  It didn’t amount to much in distance terms, a mere 15 kilometres, the same as the day before when I went up Vigla though immeasurably less strenuous, but I went from place to place stopping for a short time in what I was later to realise are indeed privately claimed territories” , “small consoling geographies”.  No point in listing them or including photos, they would be just ordinary to anyone else.

Ronald Blythe concludes his chapter by saying that he has many such places, spread himself widely  …. “and been much alone in the open air”.  That resonated very deeply with me.

I suppose because I was sitting quietly, in the shade of an olive tree for example, that I saw more of the wildlife too.  It is more difficult photographing small creatures at a distance without an SLR, the S95 is very good for many things but not for shy things which move around a lot, but I got a few shots.

A memorable walk.  A great swim.  One more day to go.

Fluoro-green tailed lizard

What do dragonflies do on these twigs????

Sheep come out of hiding and rush to the gate presumably hoping for food rather than a date with a slow-cooker

... and back in the main harbour

Cormorant or Mediterranean shag?

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Greece 2011: Symi – straight for the top

Until the 1990’s when a long zig-zag road was built connecting the harbour with the old town, Horio, on the hill to the South the principal route was a long flight of several hundred wide steps known as the Kali Strata.  As you reach the tavernas towards the top there is a view straight up to the top of the highest mountain on Symi, the 617 metre high ’Vigla’.  It is very steep, dramatic and intimidating as a challenge.

Vigla towering above the top of the Kali Strat

I have climbed Vigla a few times, aiming to do it once each time I’m here.  The route I have taken is via a mid-level path going to the deserted village of Gria at the end of the ridge, climbing the mountain behind and then following the top of the ridge to Vigla.  The descent is straight down one of the rocky spurs that is seen from the top of the Kali Strata.  Enfys did it once but declined to do so again so I took to doing it early morning and meeting up about 11.00.  It’s not the longest walk on the island but is very tiring with nil shade and, once at Gria, no path at all.

I eye Vigla and the challenge it represents every time I’m at the top of the Kali Strata, which, as the hotel is just round the corner, is frequently.  I mused about reversing the route and going straight up the rocky spine to the top.

Sunday I decided to go for it.

It is steep, sustained and very rocky.  Great care has to be taken because in places the surface is lose scree, in other places razor-sharp rocks. But for once, much of the vegetation, what little there is, is not too aggressive.  Nevertheless, pretty soon my shins were not fit to be shown on daytime internet.

I stuck to my principle of keeping a steady pace without stopping at all on the way  but it was touch and go.  Perhaps age is catching up on me.  It took me less than 1½ hours to reach the top but I was drained.

On top of Symi

Looking down to Yialos, Pedi and beyond

Amazing how much you can zoom in even with a small camera

Coming down I simply reversed the route I normally take on the way up.  I had been hopeful of finding a path along the ridge, sometimes easier on the way down from the top than on the way up, but there isn’t one.  There were bits of very well used goat track but they can’t be relied on.  Much of the way was picking a route over and around rocks.

The ridge on the way back down

Pick a way over this lot then!

Yes, this is nothing but a bit of goat path

On top of the ridge, trees dwarfed by drought, sculpted by wind: Vigla in the background

I eventually dropped down to the little slab of rock I swim from at Pedi and was never more glad to get there.  Needless to say the swim was very pleasant.

I have rarely been so tired in the evening and went to bed earlier than I can ever remember.  I turned the light out at 23.15 !!!!!!!  Meeting a challenge is not without its costs.

There is a road up the other side of Vigla to service the telecom masts on the adjoining peak.  But where is the challenge in that?

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Greece 2011: Symi – irritation, challenge, relaxation and entertainment

For once I had no idea what I wanted to do on Saturday, aside from making sure that I bought bread because the bakery isn’t open on Sundays and I needed bread to mop up the sauce on the next couple of helpings of fasolakia.

I finally decided  on a circular walk which turned out to be irritating, challenging, relaxing, and entertaining, in that order.

The first part of the walk was up along a ridge topped by a string of a dozen or more windmills and a large ancient stone structure nobody knows the purpose of though there are theories.  As I moaned about last year, the Municipal Council has planted shrubby things along this section of path and they have got out of control, not only overhanging the path but growing up in the middle of it.  Unless something is done to remove them it will not be long before the path will not be worth walking unless armed with a machete. In places it goes over rocks and the options for going around the obstructions is risky.

Shrubs now grow in the middle of the path

But muttering and grumbling to myself  I persevered and passed the obstructed bit and then on through the barren landscape heading towards my first goal, a rocky peak just to the side of very a barren col.

Walking towards the col, mountain to climb on the left

In the col

I haven’t climbed this mountain for a few years, partly because I don’t walk this path very often as the once-laidback beach it leads to has been turned into an up-market sunbed beach, very regimented and formal.  Somehow when I got to the col the mountain seemed higher and more craggy than I remembered but as it was now in my mental game-plan I  went for it anyway.

In several places on Symi the rocky limestone crags are razor sharp and great care is needed.  The challenge was not so much the energy required to reach the top, only 100 metres above the col, as to get there unscathed.  It was a mixture of rock climbing and scrambling over razor blades.  Once I did reach the top, which took longer than expected, the problem was to find somehow to sit  in order to lick my wounds.  Well, not literally of course, I haven’t yet managed to lick my shin.  Perhaps a few more Advanced Yoga classes will do the trick.  Perhaps I should also go on a course to learn how to lie on a bed of nails.  Maybe just Level 1, to learn how to sit on a bed of nails. At least I came off better than the German guy a few years ago who arrived at the beach with his face lacerated from a fall on the rocks and I had to perform open-face surgery to close up the wounds and hold his nose in place while he was rushed by fishing boat back to the town.

Photographer's leg on very sharp mountain

One bit of sharp mountain

Another bit of sharp mountain

Wounds licked and banana eaten it was back down to the col and then down to the beach.  Not really a beach, more concrete platforms with sunbeds, restaurant and taverna.  I wasn’t staying long, not my kind of place, so I perched on a bollard on the small jetty or quay or whatever the technical term is, while I changed , had a fabulous swim, dried off and was then on my way again.

The island at Agia Marina

I walked around to Pedi in the next bay.  After getting past the rocky outcrop which the Council has also planted up with weed-trees it was a pleasant amble, camera in hand.

Don't know if the turkey is following the guy with the food or running away from me

 

This is still a fishing community

I thought I came up with the boot idea!!!!

I was heading for the slab of rock on the far side of the bay which I visited for a swim most days last August and September.  Just big enough for one person, two if they are very close.  Apart from the odd youngster trying to go as fast as he can in a speed boat this is an amazingly tranquil and peaceful place.  Last year I knew I would miss it when I left and this year the same.

That’s the irritating, challenging and relaxing dealt with, now the entertaining bit.

After yet again drying off it was time for a frappé in a water-side taverna.  I sat at a table right at the water’s edge next to small fishing boats tied up, looking along the length of the narrow bay at the posh yachty things anchored there in order to avoid paying the harbour dues in the main harbour.

The problem with anchoring in the bay is that you have got to get to the land in order to have a drink or meal in the taverna, usually not a problem because you get James or one of the other crew to ferry you across in the dinghy or lighter or whatever the small boats tied on the back of posh yachts are called, and then come and collect you when you are full of food and booze.  But sometimes you do it yourself and with landlubber friends you are trying to impress.  Just so at the end of a very tranquil Saturday afternoon.

I must add here that I m very much a landlubber with no idea what a mainbrace is never mind how to splice one.  The nadir of my nautical experience was paddling my sea canoe back into Solva harbour after an early morning trip and being asked by a guy on a posh yachty thing “couldn’t do us a favour old chap and pick up that bouy for us”.  Feeling  smug at knowing the difference between a boy and  a buoy I canoed over to it, plucked it out of the water, put it on the front of the canoe and started to paddle back towards the yacht.  Of course it wouldn’t reach being tied to the seabed.  The yachties meanwhile had all fallen overboard laughing.  It seemed that the intention was that they would throw me a piece of rope which I would then tie to the buoy.

Tied up next to the taverna

I was therefore quite prepared to be entertained by the lack of sea-lubberiness about to unfold. A posh inflatable dinghy thing appears from one of the anchored yachts and is coming in to the little jetty which the taverna sits on.  There is one parking place between the small fishing boats but nowhere to get off because the entire frontage is taken up with people sitting at four small tables.  I should explain that the inflatable has what looks like a small two-man tent occupying the front half of the boat.  Anyway, the guy with the steering wheel standing up  amidships (the middle of the boat), with a couple of bikinid ladies and another bloke behind him and assorted kids in the tenty thing at the front.  He very gently and deftly manoeuvres the boat into the parking space and then just at the last moment his hand slips on the throttle, the boat surges forward hurling everyone except the guy clinging onto the steering wheel backwards.

Not the impressive, graceful arrival he had doubtless hoped for.  But it got better.  Better in the sense of more entertaining.  He has another 4 or 5 attempts before he is satisfied that he has got it right.  It seems that his prime objective is to ensure that the rough fishing boats don’t scuff his nice paintwork. Then he dispatched the other bloke to crawl through to tent and hang out of the front on his stomach in order to grab hold of the jetty.  Only he can’t reach so a kindly elderly lady at the next table to me reaches down a kindly hand to help him.  Of course she is perched on a chair with her weight on the two outside legs and with the best will in the world is nowhere near as heavy as 4 adults, assorted kids and a boat.  Result, she only just avoids toppling into the water.

I was sorely tempted to let the entertainment continue unfold unaided but thought that might look sadistic so I got off my chair, wedged a foot, grabbed the bloke’s hand and pulled the boat in.  He didn’t say thanks but then he was in extremis.  He continued to lie on his stomach hanging out of the front of the boat, grovelling at the feet of the two elderly ladies at the next table who continue sipping their tea as if he isn’t there, while the driver starts to tie posh torpedo-shaped plastic protectors to hang down the side to stop the boat brushing against the rough fishing boats.  Then he dives off the back with a snorkel to look for a rope tied to a 5 litre plastic bottle which evidently serves as a buoy.  All this while the his mate is lying on his stomach clinging onto the jetty and obviously getting quite tired.  Beefy as he was his arms were trembling with the exertion.

Driver than gets back on board and starts shouting at the prostrate human anchor, throws him a rope and tells him to get onto the jetty.  He does so and pulls the boat in fairly easily.  The others then get off pushing past the people seated at the tables and leaving him holding the rope, there being nowhere to tie it.

I leave the story there.  Save to add that while this was unfolding at our feet, just a few yards further out a guy swims into view wearing what looks like a Tilley hat, adding an air of surreality to the whole episode.  One of the most entertaining 20 minutes of the entire summer.  I have no ambition to become a sea lubber.  The learning process looks to complicated. 

Surreal

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Greece 2011: the hidden Symi and how I became a fasolakia junkie

Another brilliant start to the day with breakfast on the hotel terrace looking down to the harbour as another large cruise ship pulled into to give people their ‘Symi-fix’.  One more thing to tick of the published list of ‘1000 Things To Do Before You Die’.  I know Symi is listed, I checked it out in a bookshop in Usk.   This ship wasn’t quite as large as the one yesterday, you could just see the top of the clock tower behind it.

Seen from my balcony, another cruise ship pulls in

The plan for Friday was to do the walk I had originally in mind for yesterday.  The first part of it was winding up through the tortuous alleys of Horio with the usual mixture of old houses lived in for ever by local people and in many cases just one room, modern renovations or rebuilds often bought by incomers, particularly Brits and more recently Italians, and ‘ruins’ the left on the property market by declining demand.  You wouldn’t believe the asking price of some of these ruins.

Development opportunity in Horio

Then it was onto established paths and tracks for a while and after that it was matter of taking to paths used only by goats and farmers with donkeys.  The former had left myriad hoof-prints, the latter had left other indications.

Path picking out a route through the rocks, marked by messages from a donkey

This was very much ‘off-piste’ walking and very enjoyable.  My guess is that very few other than farmers see large parts of Symi, a view reinforce by a conversation I overhead.  One Brit Symi habitué enquiring of another whether a particular bar was still open.  It was barely 400 metres from where she was sitting.

Once into the mountains there is clearly a landscape and a way of life firmly rooted in the past and kept alive by an ageing and diminishing agricultural population.  Like the couple I helped to dismantle the bunting on Wednesday.  This is the very margin of Europe.  No fat EU Agricultural Fund cheques to support this way of life.  Yet in many ways it is the last vestiges of a way of life that should be preserved for future generations by more than a few dusty artefacts in a dusty ‘Folk Museum’.  It is important to remind ourselves and the inform the future of where we have come from.

Looking along the length of a high-level valley

Olive trees show it was once more intensively farmed than it is now.

….. closer inspection gives an indication of the antiquity of the tree

Looking back towards an enclosed field for animals and still a few olives produced

It is amazing how a few things still push up through this stony, iron-hard soil

The end of the path I followed led to a farm which could only be reached by a long trek with a donkey.  This had to be all about subsistence farming rather than commercial agriculture.  Yet there was a solar panel on the roof of the house and beehives hinted at the sale of honey, a small high value ‘crop’ transportable over the rocky path by donkey.

Eking out a living at the margins of Europe: Turkey, and Asia, just across the water

High in the crags above the farm are the vestiges of a much older settlement, possibly Pre-Hellenic.  What is going on now is following on from that much earlier tradition about which, as far as I can find out, there is no information. Last year I tried to find out information in the island’s museum but failed.

Monolith on top of vertical crags

Stone walls built into the crag to create a high-level platform

I had a good swim on the way back and then, once in the town, shopped for the ingredients for another batch of fasolakia.

I have to admit that though I have re-adopted the pattern I set when I was living here last year of cooking for myself rather than eating out every night, I have gone for a simplified option.  Basically, I make a large batch of fasolakia, heat up a portion each day and add something like sliced ham or feta.  I’m very fond of fasolakia and I make what is probably a fairly posh version with lots of tasty ingredients like garlic, fennel, black pepper and red wine.  And unlike last year, when the supply of fruit and veg, including green beans, was seriously disrupted by the lorry drivers’ strike on the mainland, this year they are in plentiful supply.  Shame to leave them on the shelves. But in my enthusiasm I think I overdid the quantities a bit on Friday and made enough for 5 verygenerous portions. I’m only here for another 4 nights and I had planned to eat out on my final night.  So it will be a choice between throwing some of it away ….. or overdosing.  Fasolakia anyone?

What a great place to cut up beans


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Greece 2011: changing my mind on Symi

I woke up with a few aches and pains on Thursday so I thought that a shorter walk than yesterday would be on the cards.  So after what used to be called quaintly ‘the usual offices’ I set out for the ridge with the intention of exploring a bit more of a peninsular where I did a bit of poking around last year.

Once I got into my stride I loosened up and was moving very quickly which, given that I had also had an early start, would have made for a very short day.  I was having second thoughts about the plan.

I reached the great shade tree at the entrance to one of the grander monasteries in 45 minutes, far quicker than I had expected to, and was feeling full of vim.  I wonder which came first, the term applying to physical energy or the cleaning product?  And I wonder how it differs from ‘vigour’ with which it is usually linked phraseologically.  I’ll have to check the etymology, not to be confused with aetiology or entomology. But not just yet.

In short I decided to change my plan completely, go west instead of east and head for the island monastery of Agios Emilianos.

Two thoughts here.  The fact that the walks I do always seem to go to monasteries with stopping-off points at other monasteries on the way, is simply because the only reason the paths are there at all is because they link settlements and for the vast majority of the last two millennia, in this part of the world, settlements have been focused on monasteries and churches.   That has only changed in the last 50 years and in many cases a lot shorter time than that.

The second thought is to do with mountain safety.  Advice in the UK certainly is to always tell someone where you are going and the route you plan to take.  If you park your car you are advised to leave a note in the windscreen with the same information and estimated time of your return.  Advice intended to alert the people with body-bags to come and look for you and save their time searching.   But typically British …. and very anally retentive.  Apart from inviting youf and other scallies to break into and nick your car, a real problem in some mountain areas in Britain, it means you can’t change your plans.  You can’t suddenly decide “I’ll go west instead of east” without the nail-biting angst of thinking that you may be sending the body-bags the wrong way.

As I have said before, my mountain philosophy is very clear on this: take responsibility for your own actions.  If there is no-one coming to get you, make sure that they don’t need to.

I went west to Agios Elianos, walked with plenty of vim all the way there and back, pushed the pace hard, saw some interesting stuff, met some interesting people ……  had a great time.  If I had I opted for the shorter walk I originally planned I’m quite sure that on the day I would have felt I hadn’t done enough.

The shade tree where I decided to go west instead of east

Being watched from the shadows

View down to the island monastery of Agios Emilianos from the en route monastery of Agios Ionnis Theologos

Many of the old monasteries have fine examples of wood carving

Those Turkish boats get everywhere

The island monastery of Agios Emilianos, linked to the 'mainland' by causeway, now badly breaking up. Turkey in the background.

Photographer alive and well, in the well

I never tire of this view .... but look at the size of that boat compared to the building alongside. And where has the town clock gone?

 


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Greece 2011: Filoxenia is alive and well on Symi

I needed a good long, hard walk on Wednesday, so after the usual preliminaries I set out to walk to the Byzantine Wine Presses high on the ridge via the mountain-top monastery of Stavros Polemou (‘The Cross of War’ I think it translates as but referred to in English by Greeks as ‘The Cross’).

The first part of the walk is inexorably uphill, a long way uphill, until the climbing slackens and the path meanders along the ridge.  And it was hot, partly because the air temperature was higher anyway but partly also because there was no breeze, not even a zephyr (why did Ford once think it a good idea to name their top-of-range-car a ‘Zephyr’??).

As I trundled fairly easily if increasingly warmly uphill my mind suddenly homed in on the fact that last year the monastery I was aiming for and one of the key ‘shade spot’ monasteries on the way had been padlocked to stop anyone getting into the enclosure.  OK, maybe lock the church and the accommodation ‘cells’, but why prevent access to the shade under the trees planted specifically to give rest to weary travellers?  It was the antithesis of the principle of φιλοξενία – ‘filoxenia’, defined as “the friendly and generous reception and entertainment of guests or strangers”.   In previous years they had been open to allow free access but last year were very firmly locked apparently in response to incidents or the fear of vandalism.

The enclosures of the first two monasteries I passed were locked but I knew that was not an issue because there was plenty of shady places to sit outside.  But as I trudged ever upwards into the mountains and became ever hotter, particularly under the collar, in anticipation of what lay ahead, I started to not only rant inwardly but to compose what I would write in the blog:  On the island of Hydra mountain churches are open and they leave boiled sweets to refresh travellers in lieu of fresh fruit.  On Amorgos they welcome you with Raki and iced water.  On Symi they lock the gates against you”.

The nature of the path ... just my sort of thing

Through the cathartic act of creativity I had got the aggression out of my system by the time I reached the first monastery and was delighted, and not  a little chastened, to see that though the enclosure was indeed locked, chairs had been placed outside under the shade of the trees.  Fantastic!! Filoxenia lives on!!!

Chairs set out under the trees

Outside the fence but in the shade and very comfortable

The next section of the path is the most paint-signed path I have ever seen anywhere.  Blue and red dots the size of footballs, 30-45 cm crosses (remember the name of the monastery!!) and similar sized arrows on nearly every rock.  All unnecessary because the path was clear anyway.  I composed the next bit of the blog:  “they make it crystal clear how to find the place but then lock the gates”.  Yes, you’ve guessed it.  I was wrong again.

In case of any doubt.....

This time the gates were closed against the goats but left unlocked.  Even more chastened this time and regretting such harsh thoughts about the demise of filoxenia in the face of paranoia.

Inside the monastery enclosure on top of the world.

From the monastery enclosure looking straight down the cliff

An old church set into the rocks just under the top

From the mountain top I headed back down and further along the ridge to visit the Byzantine wine presses.  I went there last year for the first time and found the area fascinating.  Ever since I first saw them, each time I have passed this way I have visited one monastery with a cool, shady courtyard and an amazing interior and another with …. a polar bear.

Cool courtyard

fresco-lined and hochlakos floored

I love this!!!!

As it was time to eat I went to another small monastery which was bedecked with bunting and flags, obviously the aftermath of a celebration. I ate my banana and nutbar and then, as happens now and again, stretched out on a wall under the large shade tree and dozed in the midday heat. Very relaxing, even if it doesn’t get my cornmeal made.  (C’mon, you must know the song)

Post-party flags and bunting

After a fairly short time I jerked back to the real world as I heard someone approaching.  Very long story this so I’ll shorten it.  It was an old woman who obviously spoke no English whatever which is always a challenge for my Greek.  She invited me to go in and look at the church which she unlocked.  I made appreciative noises, admiring in particular the hand-carved wooden screens and she pulled up a chair for me to sit on.  The cool and calm of the church were very pleasant and I guess I must have looked at ease.

The next thing I know is that the old lady has thrust a €10 note into my hand which she said was for me to have a coffee afterwards.  I tried to protest but know that to refuse to accept filoxenia can cause offence.  So I thanked her with the usual hand-to-chest indication of sincerity.

We then went back outside and there then followed a period of animated conversation from her which I barely followed.  It seemed that her husband was coming but that I had one quality which he lacked: I was tall.  I failed to grasp the relevance of this until it dawned on me that she wanted me to untie the bunting from the trees.  As is often the case, it seemed that more people had been prepared to help set up for the party than to clear up afterwards and the bunting had been put up by somebody tall who had since left the scene.

No problem at all.  When her husband arrived two things were clear.  There was no way that he could have reached the fixing points of the bunting and flags.  And he was relieved that he didn’t have to try.  I learned how to fold up bunting ready to store for next year and we finished the job together in not much time at all.

The couple then invited me into the accommodation part of the monastery for a coffee.  Again I couldn’t refuse, they would have been very upset.  But I didn’t know what to do about the €10.  The coffee was naturally Greek, made in a very flowery briki on a tiny camping Gaz gas stove.  I overcame my total antipathy to Greek coffee by having a little sugar in it.  While I was sipping it delicately they brought me a plastic bag of food and fruit juice ‘for after’.  I think they were very concerned that I had walked there and had to walk all the way back.

It was an amazing passage of time.  No idea how long I was with them altogether.  I didn’t look at my watch before, during or after.  Partly because I didn’t have one.  Mainly because it was irrelevant.  I was dozing off and then was in an interaction with real people in real time that was outside of ‘clock time’, if that doesn’t sound like gibberish.  It had a natural beginning and end.

I was buzzing all the way back to the village.  I can’t remember a day when my prejudices at the beginning were so completely turned on their head by the end, grumpiness turned to pleasure.  Filoxenia lives on!!

That view again, but this time from even higher up the mountain


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Greece 2011: Symi walk, the old, the dry, the colourful

Tuesday dawned warm and sunny.  So what’s new?!  Only two things really.  I wasn’t around when it dawned,  I was far away in the Land of Nod after a heavy night’s partying.  Well, really just attending the opening evening of an art exhibition in the art gallery almost next door to the hotel.  But it did make for heavy duty conversation along the lines of  “Where are you from then?”,  “Which work do you like the best?” and, perhaps most up my nose,  “I can’t believe you’re Scandinavian, you sound so ENGlish”,  very insulting to the charming and intelligent Scandinavian lady being so superficially interrogated.  I don’t do parties, that’s why I’m a mountaineer.

It made a change but it did make it very late having my tea.  Gone 22.00 in fact which is why I slept so soundly and why the other new thing: I woke up and had no clue what day of the week it was.  In fact it took several seconds to work out where I was on the planet.  I guess it’s all to do with circadian rhythms.  I woke up at the same time because of the alarm clock but was still in deep sleep, the REM/Non-REM sleep pattern having been set back half an hour.

Equilibrium having been attained the usual routine then kicked in.  Early morning fruit juice on the balcony soaking in the view.  Breakfast on the hotel terrace.  High-dose caffeine injection (espresso to you) in the coffee shop opposite the hotel, accompanied by internet access to check e-mails, post blog and wonder why the money I transferred from one bank account to another on 01 September has disappeared out of the one account but not yet appeared in the other.  Where is it and who is getting the interest????

Then I headed off for a walk, rough direction and idea in mind but making it up as I went along really.  I was familiar with all the bits of the route I took but it seemed that at every turn there was something new and, occasionally, something even downright bizarre.

Basically I walked to an old deserted village, climbed the mountain behind it and then dropped down to the beach at Pedi for a swim before walking back up to Horio.   Once again, very enjoyable.  Here it is in images:

There are still colourful old buildings in Horio

The monastery of ‘The Waters of Life’ on the flank of the mountain has a great walled garden, very productive earlier in the summer, now cropped and dry

The path goes through ‘The Gap’, now, sadly, for ever empty.

Not hanging around waiting for Christmas: could this be the one I saw escaped on another part of the mountain last year??

The top of the long-deserted village of Gria

The first squill I have seen in flower this year

Just to prove that I got to the top of the mountain

Amazing patterns formed by about the most primitive life form. surviving in even the hottest, driest conditions

Symi is often said to have no water. Paradoxically this permanent pond is at Gria, the village abandoned because of lack of water. This is a Symi Pondwit, though the rest of the world may know it by a different name

Another of the pond-dwellers

Pond life bleached white in the sun

Sharp end of a boat at Pedi

…. and back into Horio, another bit of colourful dilapidation

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Greece 2011: I’ve got a ticket to Rhodes … and an attack of the grumps

After giving up on my well-formed but thwarted plan for Sunday I put it into operation on Monday.  Brilliant success!!! To misquote and misinterpret the Beattles’ song, “I’ve got a ticket to Rhodes”.   I got my ferry ticket!!!!

I’m a forward planner by temperament and personality as well as by (former) profession but I have never booked a ticket for a Greek ferry so far in advance.  Not uncommonly we have booked it 2 or 3 days ahead,  but then we have been just as likely to book it on the harbourside minutes before sailing.  Until leaving Kalymnos on Friday it simply hasn’t been an issue.  But now it is.  I’m told that this year people have been stranded on Symi and unable to make their flight when trying to book 2 or 3 days ahead.  No messing with this stuff.  I don’t want to miss the flight.  Neither do I don’t want to spend more time than necessary on Rhodes.  So I booked the ticket today to travel a week on Wednesday, 9 gays ahead.  Seismic!!

Then I went for the walk I had planned from the harbourside.  The path goes steeply up from the town and then gently meanders along a spur up to the northern ridge of the island.  There are good views down to Nimborio Bay, the ridge on the other side and Turkey beyond that, the width of the Bristol Channel  away.

What a place to have a place!

One thing which struck me was that the landscape I was walking through seemed more than ever barren, dry and shrivelled up.  It’s now the end of a dry, hot summer so, up to a point, it is to be expected.  Many of the plants which would have been in flower in early summer were now just dried leaves and dead stems but many of the tough little perennial plants were dry, gnarled twigs with just a few sprigs of green, some with no green at all.  I don’t know the extent to which this is climate change, summers getting hotter and winters dryer, and the extent to which it is because the water table is being lowered by increasing water abstraction to keep tourists in daily showers.

Through the barren landscape

Paths and fields all barren at the end of summer

Dried up, gnarled twigs with a bit of green trying to survive

It may simply be another dip in the long-term climate cycle.  There is clear evidence that this area was once populated and agriculturally rich.  Now there is scant evidence of even those arch-survivors of arid landscapes, mountain goats.

Olive press high up in the col, sign of well established agriculture in the past

My destination was on the other side of the ridge and I was already getting cross by what I knew I would find even before I crossed the ridgeline.  Just over the top and the path goes through a cleft in the rocks and then an environmental atrocity comes into view.  A bulldozed track down to the once secluded and pleasant Toli Beach destroying the path and replacing it with bare soil and rock.  The environment here is so marginal that it will be generations before even sparse vegetation comes back.  And this is all in the interests of pandering to car and bike hire companies, to give them somewhere else to drive to before coming back to town and clogging up the harbourside.  You can tell I feel strongly about this.

Toli was one of 3 pleasant, secluded beaches to walk to.  Now it’s an umbrella beach with the catering concession franchised out.  Another was Lapathos Beach which I walked to yesterday, now a popular stopping-off point for round-the-island trip boats and speed-boats.

Bulldozed track down to Toli Beach

The third was the one I was heading for today, the tiny Agios Isodoros.  Again, I knew what I would find before I got there.  Trip boats from Turkey anchored for the day.  It had been like that last time I was here and I had no reason to suppose that it would any different.  It wasn’t.  As the beach came into view there were two boats tied up to rocks and their fee-paying passengers were splashing around in the water or sitting on the beach.

It seems to me that this can’t be right.  It can’t be right in international law.  And it can’t be right for boats from Turkey to come across and clutter up the one remaining secluded beach on the island.  A quick search of the internet told me that Turkey is estimated to have 8,000 miles of coastline and “some of the most beautiful pristine beaches in Europe, often with a backdrop of lush green forests and just a stone’s throw from an archaeological treasure. Many secluded beaches can be enjoyed by relaxed boat trips available from the resorts”..  So why do the b******s come here?!?!?  The beach at Agios Isodoros is less than 100 metres across

Turkish boats tied up to a rock on the beach

..... and then there were four

Looking back down to the bay from the ridge

I rather grumpily enjoyed a couple of swims, the water in the bay at Agios Isodoros being really pleasant.  Then I headed back up the hill and around the ridge via a broad ‘hidden valley’ to a ridge-top monastery, another swim from the beach at Nimborio before climbing over the shoulder of the hill to sit in the shady courtyard of yet another monastery.

High level hidden valley

Ridge-top monastery looking towards Turkey

Cool, shady courtyard

Altogether a very good walk.  Enjoyable paths.  Enjoyable views.  I love the mountains like this and the opportunity to swim in the Aegean is a privilege. And here and there the first of the Autumn squills are starting to push up out of their dried-up looking bulbs.  There is hope.

Squill pushing out into the arid world.


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